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Cuzco, Peru -- Again

Wednesday, June 23

Damas y Caballeros,

Yes, these are busy times in South America. I have bid farewell to Bolivia and have returned to the home of Macchu Picchu. My final report on Bolivia is ready for your approval.

The country of Bolivia, referred to as the Tibet of the Americas in my guidebook, provides stark contrasts for the relatively few tourists that dare to cross its borders. While its scenery is, thus far, the most consistently beautiful of any country I have visited, its people are, thus far, the most consistently feo (ugly) of any country I have visited. First, the good, then the bad, then the ugly.

The Good: As you already know from my previous tales of my Bolivian saga, the country offers a wide variety of climates, activities, and animals to its visitors. I had planned to read, to learn Spanish, or to sleep on each bus trip, but found myself unable to keep from looking out the window. There was either always a herd of alpacas running around, some volcano to be captivated by, or some oncoming bus to fear. You really have not lived until you have stepped aboard a bus in Bolivia. (Though, I wisely chose not to travel on what is known as the most dangerous road in the world--in 1994, twenty-six buses went over the edge of a road between La Paz and the jungle.)

The Bad: Bolivia also wore me down. The atrocious bus schedules landed me into cities at 4, 5, and 7 AM at different points of the trip. On unpaved roads, this accounted for several sleepless nights. Arriving in at these times, I was less than excited to try my luck at a high-pressure, tepid-to-warm water shower. I do truly admire those people that I have come across who have spent three months in Bolivia.

The Ugly: two words, The People. Throughout my travels, I have met many wonderful Latin Americans, usually willing to help in any way possible. In Bolivia, going out to eat often turned into a frustrating experience. In one such case, I was enticed into a restaurant because I saw steak grilling in the front and was told by the owner that it would be included in my $2 meal. However, the waitress appeared to not know that steak existed, let alone that she was less than twenty paces from a grill full of them. After about ten minutes of her running back and forth to the owner, we managed to get our just desserts.

All in all, Bolivia is a wonderful place to spend a week or two, depending on your time constraints. I am much more relaxed now that I have left there.

I have spent the past week and a half living with a terrific family in Cuzco. I have cable tv; I have my own room; I have a servant-like sister to cook my meals; in effect, I have a place to call home. Along with these comforts come some negative aspects of living with a traditional, Latin family. The father worries about me when I go out at night; I am known as a bum for sleeping in until 11 AM last Saturday morning; and, I am often called a womanizer for having female friends. I have had difficulty in remembering to make my bed, to close the bathroom door after using it, and to use the carpet-like footpads that the others slide around on when they leave the kitchen and walk around the house. I am slowly getting accustomed to being a little neater, but it is taking some time.

Here, I have three elder siblings, quite a change of pace having been the oldest child in my family. They each enjoy dispelling their wisdom, and they marvel at my independent lifestyle. My 28-year-old sister, Pati, took me to her kindergarten class last week. After sufficiently riling three classes of five-year-old girls by scaring them, making them sing, and being obnoxious to them, they were blocking the doors so that I would not leave their classrooms. I might have to return in about twenty years to see if they are still in love with me.

Fathers Day here was a bit different for me. I was awakened at 8 AM to join the family for a breakfast that consisted of pig and tamales. We spent the entire day together, and I had the opportunity to meet all three hundred (or so it seemed) cousins, grandparents, uncles, and in-laws. We arrived at the in-laws at around 3 PM and they insisted on replenishing our beverages until around eight that night. I was quite happy that we were not driving home.

All in all, it has been a wonderful experience thus far. Tomorrow is when the grandest festival in Cuzco will take place: The Festival of the Sun. For the preceding week, there have been parades of schoolchildren, colorful dancers, and college students in the main plaza from dawn to dusk. (I think that every single resident of Cuzco has marched around the plaza at some point during the week.) I am eagerly anticipating the big day tomorrow and will provide a full report when next we communicate.

Luego,

Dan

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