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Quito, Ecuador (I'm not through with you yet)

Wednesday, July 21

I have fantastic weather (70F and sunny daily); I have public tennis and basketball courts; I have toilets with seats; I have hot showers; and for the first time in quite awhile, I even have a job. No, I'm not back in the States yet--I'm living the high life in Quito, which rhymes with mosquito. Over the weekend, I flew to Quito from Lima to avoid having to hike here from the border. Little did I know that the transportation strikes had ended the day before my flight. As part of my itinerary, I flew over Quito and into Bogota, Columbia then back to Quito. Somehow, I survived unharmed in the Columbian airport for nearly an hour without being kidnapped. I tried my best to look Canadian and kept my passport well-hidden since an American is like a juicy filet mignon for the terrorists there.

Upon my arrival in Quito, I changed money at the airport and found that my 10,000 sucre notes were worth about ninety cents. Needless to say, millionaires are made overnight here quite easily. I received a small fortune of sucres when I changed a $100 traveler check. The bills were bulging out of my pockets, and I really needed a briefcase to carry around that kind of cash.

The highlight of my stay in Quito thus far has been my job as a bartender at one of the better bars in town. The job interview went something like this:

Manager: De que pais? (What country are you from?)
Me: Estados Unidos. (United States.)
Manager: Empieza en lunes. (You start on Monday.)

I hope my future interviews will be similar. The No Bar takes pleasure in employing gringos, making them carry heavy boxes of alcohol and paying them $5 per night. Aside of that, the perks are quite appealing and the job is a blast. The manager expects us to entertain the customers while we are not working, and I have been seen to be dancing on the bar on occasion. Those days in the fraternity house are really paying off now. Don't worry, I will get some pictures of this. Fortunately, my complete lack of any prior bartending experience has not hindered me since everyone orders the basics. I haven't quite gotten the hang of twisting the napkins around the glasses, but I should have the hang of it by the end of the week. The job is also sharpening my computational skills since I have to constantly think in tens of thousands.

Back to Peru, my solo trek--albeit cut brief due to the freezing cold, the fact that I went the wrong way, the steepest trail that I have ever encountered, and the fourth installment of my stomach problems--was a terrific experience. I followed the day trippers up a path to a lake that has a similar name as the area I was supposed to go to. These people were struggling mightily with the five pounds they were carrying and laughed as they passed me while I had to catch my breath every ten steps or so. I didn't realize that I would lose acclimitization to the altitude after being out of it for only one week, but I certainly was being educated as I ascended that mother of a relentlessly, vertical hill. I reached a campsite just before the lake just in time to see a group of people rock climbing their way up to the lake. At that point, I decided that I would camp for the night and finish the climb the following day. My campsite was at about 15,000 feet which is higher than any of the peaks in mainland North America. I collapsed once I set up my tent and tried to nap but could only gasp for air. The camping area was serene and peaceful--surrounding me were a powerful waterfall, jagged mountaintops, and colorful rock formations (as usual). I happened to be the only person in sight for that entire evening and enjoyed the quiet respite in contrast to the noisy city of Lima that I had recently left behind.

The following morning, I reached the lake after a fairly dangerous half hour of rock climbing without any equipment. The setting was fabulous with a large, aqua blue lake, reflecting the snowy mountains that guarded it on three sides. I made sure to stay there for an hour so that I could get some value out of the ardous climb I had made to get there. After the hour, I spent twice as long getting back down as I did up, wishing that I had brought some rappelling gear along. On the way back down to the pickup truck that would take me back to Huaraz, I had to send my water bottle and backpack for a twenty foot drop in order that the same thing wouldn't happen to me. Finally, I safely reached the bottom and resolved that I had just finished the last trek of this trip.

The traveler of the week award goes to the Alaskan fisherman that I met on the way back to the city. He works in the number one most dangerous occupation for forty-five days per year and travels the rest of the time. He was heading back to town to be named the godfather of some newborn in the town. I wish I had that much time...

Contrary to what I said in my last e-mail, I have decided to visit the weirdo animals of the Galapagos. As a result, the current plan is to be back in Boston by the 19th of August. Sorry if that throws off the parade schedule but I can't quite leave yet. Also, I have not heard from a number of you in quite some time. Another traveler made the request that his friends give him a brief reply just to know that they haven't been sent to jail, mauled by a bear or whatever else would keep them from corresponding with him. Since I will be home in less than a month, I would like to know whose names I need to keep in my address book. So if you could take a minute to say hello--if you can--please do so and include a current phone number, especially if you are on the East Coast, because I will not have access to your number otherwise and will not be able to see you otherwise when I finally arrive there. Or, if you really would like to avoid having to see me, then don't reply, have a nice life, and I'll probably wind up bumping into you somewhere along the line anyway.

Thanks in advance for your cooperation.

Dan

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